domingo, 27 de mayo de 2007

Niger, mi vida como tuareg

Si fuera posible vivir varias vidas, una de ellas tendria que ser la de tuareg. Gente noble, hospitalaria, alegre, recia... viviendo en el desierto que, si, es un medio duro: ese calor, esas tormentas de arena, esas moscas insaciables... aunque tambien encuentras una claridad limpia, la tranquilidad de la soledad, el te con queso de cabra, la hoguera y la conversacion amable bajo las estrellas, los oasis llenos de frutas y de agua transparente... ay!






Tras el cambio de plan, nos costo sangre, sudor y lagrimas recorrer los 1000 km que nos separaban de Agadez al salir de Benin por Malanville... pero hubo buena recompensa.

Niger es el pais mas pobre del mundo, dicen. Nada mas cruzar la frontera desaparecieron los vehiculos -coches, motos, bicis-, las tiendecitas en los pueblos, los grandes arboles de la sabana... solo se veia gente delgada caminando por el borde de las carreteras, portando bultos sobre la cabeza y aguantando estoicamente este calorazo inmisericorde.

Cuanto mas al norte, mas arido se vuelve el paisaje; las chozas de adobe y paja casi no se distinguen del fondo, que es del mismo color. Hay hombres a camello liderando rebanhos de vacas de cuernos puntiagudos que miran en sentidos opuestos. Los agujeracos de la carretera/pista nos ralentizan muchisimo: dos dias de 10 horas de conduccion ininterrumpida con noche en mitad de ninguna parte acompanhados por una nube de mosquitos salvajes y furiosos anhelantes de chuparle la sangre al primer animal que se ponga a tiro... y por ese viento ya conocido que parece que va a tumbar el coche y que no nos deja dormir,y encima nos llena la tienda de arena... (una noche de autos, vamos)







Cuando llegamos a Agadez, nos parecio un espejismo: una ciudad organizada, asfaltada, alcantarillada, con un alumbrado publico increible (cortesia de M. Gadafi). Bien cara, por cierto.


Agadez es la puerta del desierto del Tenere y de las montanhas de l'Air. Como ya hace mucho calor, los turistas se reducian a nosotros mismos... lo cual, increiblemente, no facilitaba encontrar un guia -oligatorio- para visitar estos lugares. Al final una agencia dirigida por un frances, Dunes Voyages, nos ofrecio 4 dias con un guia, Djillou, que fue realmente el gran descubrimiento del desierto.




Todo un caracter. Muy buen guia, y mucho mejor persona. Moderno y respetuoso con sus tradiciones: entiende a los guiris... y viaja con su tetera y su te...Un sentido del humor agudo... "c'est pas de tout claire, Antonio.... il faut mettre la lumiere!". Mucha suerte tuvimos.




Cuando llegas a casa de alguien, no te preguntan si quieres beber o comer o descansar... te sacan una esterilla, un plato de comida y un vaso de te y a charlar sobre el viaje, la vida... Estan muy orgullosos de los pozos y de los huertos que producen de todo, y te lo ensenhan con entusiasmo.




El ultimo dia nos acercamos a la puerta del desierto, por donde se mueven las caravanas de camellos en la epoca fresca... aqui soportamos, bajo las ultimas acacias antes de la nada, un calor importante... y el ataque de las moscas mas plastas que nunca haya conocido. Hasta que se hizonoche, se fueron las moscas y llego el viento furiosisimo lleno de arena... aquello prometia ser otra nochecita de autos, pero Djillou nos dijo que nos pusieramos el turbante por la cabeza y la cara y orientados con la cabeza hacia el viento, pasamos una noche estupenda!

En fin, que me quedo con el desierto!!!!!
Pero el viaje continua, de nuevo al sur, de nuevo al sahel calenturiento y polvoriento... en medio del cual esta Zinder, ciudad con un palacio y sultan y preciosas casas hausa. Es curioso que sobreviva esta figura con su corte, sus caballos, su poder... aunque al ultimo lo destituyeron por saltarse todos los protocolos y ser mas amigo que nadie de Gadaffi... y es que cuando la puteria esta mala, hay que buscar financiacion donde sea!
Niger
Y despues de Zinder... la incognita temida de Nigeria....

12 comentarios:

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